If you were at the 2022 JCK show, you might have seen these companies’ finished product: substantial, intricate sterling silver rings, bracelets, and more designed by Formula 3D’s Christian Tse and printed on Desktop Metal’s Production System. (A Tse-designed and Desktop Metal–printed sterling silver ring is pictured at top.)
“We can actually print in precious metals in two hours what we do in two days with casting,” said Tse in a statement. “In addition, creating jewelry with direct 3D printing on binder jetting systems”—a process that uses inkjet print heads, like your average at-home printer—“allows us to consider new options to circumvent some of the supply chain challenges facing the fine jewelry industry,” continued Tse. “We can bypass shipping delays and their mounting costs, as well as avoid duties.”
Printing precious metals directly on high-speed binder jetting systems is “a major milestone for the jewelry and luxury goods industry,” added Ric Fulop, founder and CEO of Desktop Metal, also in a statement. “All the design freedom and customization of 3D printing can now be delivered directly at high volumes without all of the labor associated with traditional manufacturing processes.”
Next, Desktop Metal and Formula 3D are planning to roll out 18k yellow gold, with additional alloys in development.
The 12th annual international conference on gold and diamonds from the Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC)—Gold, Diamonds, and Jewelry in a Transformational Age—will be held in person at the Bohemian National Hall in New York July 18–20.
This year’s conference will focus on “the balance between maintaining the romance and lore of gems and jewelry that has enticed consumers for centuries, while considering the imperatives of responsible sourcing and practice, which underpin the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals and COP26,” according to a statement about the event.
“Boldness is exactly what we need when tackling complex challenges such as supply chain transparency, market access for artisanal miners in high-risk areas, or sustainable and equitable programs in producer communities.,” said Joanne Lebert, executive director for IMPACT, in a statement. “I look forward to pushing the boundaries of our thinking and approach to the future when we meet.”
The three-day event begins on the evening of Monday, July 18, with a reception at the midtown Manhattan showroom of Cadar, with opening remarks given by Jean Poh, CEO of the luxury jewelry house.
President of IAC Lisa Koenigsberg will open the conference on the morning of Tuesday, July 19, followed by Richline’s chief marketing officer Mark Hanna. “We find ourselves in a transformational era. Bold inquiry and engagement offer the way forward regarding the pressing issues of our time such as climate, conflict, and origin and are also key in meeting the challenges faced by those crafting jewelry for millennia: to adorn, elevate, and inspire,” said Koenigsberg in a statement.
Tuesday’s opening panel, “Climate Change and Planning for the Future,” which will be moderated by Mark Hanna, comprises Sarah Dupont, founder of Amazon Aid; John Mulligan, director of market relations and climate lead of World Gold Council; Simone Knobloch, chief operating officer for Valcambi; Hélène Piaget, CEO of the Responsible Mining Foundation; and Tensie Whelan, clinical professor of business and society and director of the Center for Sustainable Business at New York University Stern School of Business.
A next address will be given by Cassie Hoffman of Conservation X Labs and Toby Pomeroy, founder and director of Mercury Free Mining, on the topics of projects and initiatives aimed at eliminating the use of mercury in mining. Following that, JCK’s Rob Bates will moderate a panel discussing what constitutes origin, how origin is documented, and the importance of traceability. The panel is set to include David Block, CEO of Sarine Group; Angel Camacho, a criminal analyst and member of the advisory board for Amazon Aid; Joanne Lebert, executive director of IMPACT; Olivier Demierre, president of Swiss Better Gold and senior vice president of corporate social responsibility for MKS PAMP Group; and Christina T. Miller of Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consultants.
The first afternoon session, “Succession: Transition and Ensuring the Future in the Jewelry and Precious Metals Sectors,” will feature Edward Asscher, president of World Diamond Council; Lita Asscher, copresident of Royal Asscher Diamond Co.; Ted Doudak, CEO of Riva Precision Manufacturing; and Alice Cicolini, jewelry designer, curator, and author.
Following that, “Mining in the ASM Sector: Comparative Approaches,” moderated by Brecken Branstrator, senior editor, gemstones, National Jeweler, will include a panel of Cristina Villegas, director of Mines to Markets for Pact; Christian Sieber, consultant for Valcambi; Ruby Stocklin-Weinberg, program manager of GemFair for De Beers; as well as Olivier Demierre and Joanne Lebert. This will be followed by the keynote presentation, “Facing Forward: Update From the Kimberley Process and World Diamond Council,” given by Edward Asscher.
To close the evening, IAC will honor two industry members with awards for their thought leadership and change-making in the industry: Mark Hanna, chief marketing officer for Richline, will be honored with the award for Leadership in Responsible Practice, and Rob Bates, news director for JCK magazine, will be honored with the award for Outstanding Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industries.
On Wednesday, July 20, the first panel, “Global Expectations: Language, Legislation, Regulation, and Transformation,” will be discussed by Gaetano Cavalieri, president of CIBJO, The World Jewellery Confederation; Tiffany Stevens, CEO and president of Jewelers Vigilance Committee; Theresa M. Forbes, AML/CFT adviser for U.S. Department of the Treasury; as well as Mark Hanna, Joanne Lebert, and Angel Camacho.
This will be followed by “Mining: Responsible Sourcing and Best Practice at the Interface of LSM and ASM,” a conversation with Aimee Boulanger, executive director of Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA); Nick Cotts, vice president of sustainability and external relations at Newmont Mining Corp.; Edward Bickham, senior adviser for World Gold Council; Christina Villegas; Hélène Piaget; and Christian Sieber.
“Matters of Principle and Practice: Toward an Industry Road Map to Sustainability,” will be presented by the World Gold Council’s John Mulligan. “Training Goldsmiths and Jewelers for the Future,” the next panel, includes Ebba Goring, chief executive for Scottish Goldsmiths Trust; Nanz Aalund, author of A Jeweler’s Guide to Apprenticeships; Karen Westland, program manager for ethical making, Scottish Goldsmiths Trust; and Ted Doudak.
“Principle in Practice: The Scottish Goldsmiths Trust’s Ethical Making Pledge,” will be presented by Ebba Goring and Karen Westland, followed by a presentation on sustainability by Alice Cicolini.
Wrapping up the conference with “Who Determines the Belperron of the Future,” will be Lisa Koenigsberg, Jean Poh, and Mark Emanuel, co-owner of David Webb.
For more information on the upcoming event, visit artininitiatives.com.
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